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Resources · Textile printing glossary

The textile printing glossary — thread count, GSM and more, explained.

An A–Z of the vocabulary buyers, designers, developers and brand owners actually need when working with textile production — print methods, fabric types, certifications, finishes and the API terms that show up in an integration. Clear, accurate definitions written in plain language, not marketing fluff.

50+ terms · Print methods, fabrics, certifications & API vocabulary · Updated regularly

The glossary

Skip to a letter.

Definitions are grouped alphabetically. Cross-references (“see also”) link straight to the related term. If a term you need isn’t here, talk to our team — we’ll define it and add it.

A

All-over print (AOP)

A print that covers the entire garment surface (front, back, sleeves, side seams) rather than being limited to a defined print area. AOP requires fabric to be printed before sewing, then cut and stitched into the garment. Industrial reactive printing is the textile-industry standard for AOP on cotton.

See also: Reaktīvā drukāšana · Griešana un šūšana

Audit-ready supply chain

A production network where each stage (raw material, processing, printing, finishing, packing) can be traced through documentation provided to a third-party auditor. Required for B Corp certification, ESG reporting, and government procurement.

B

Base fabric

The unprinted fabric a print is applied to. Base choice (cotton jersey, percale, sateen, French Terry, canvas, twill) determines handfeel, weight, drape, and which print methods are compatible.

Bleed

Extra image area extending past the cut line so that, after sewing, no white edges show on the finished garment. Typically 5–10 mm bleed required for AOP production.

C

CBAM (Carbon Border Adjustment Mechanism)

EU regulation effective 2026 that prices the carbon content of imported goods at the EU border. Affects textile imports from non-EU countries. EU-based production (e.g. Portugal, Spain) avoids CBAM exposure entirely.

Certification (textile)

Independent third-party verification of a claim about a textile (chemical safety, organic content, labour conditions, environmental impact). Most relevant for B2B buyers: OEKO-TEX, GOTS, GRS (Global Recycled Standard), Bluesign.

See also: GOTS · OEKO-TEX standarts 100

Colourfastness

Resistance of a printed colour to fading or running. Measured by standardised tests (wash fastness, light fastness, rub fastness). Reactive prints typically achieve grade 4–5 (out of 5) on wash fastness, the textile industry’s gold standard.

Cotton percale

Plain-weave cotton with thread count typically 200–400. Crisp, matte handfeel. Standard base for premium bedding (duvet covers, pillow shams). 200TC and 300TC are most common.

Cotton sateen

Cotton woven with a satin weave (more weft threads on the surface than warp). Smoother and slightly more lustrous than percale. Common in higher-thread-count bedding (300TC, 400TC).

Griešana un šūšana

The production process where fabric is printed, then cut into garment pattern pieces, then sewn. Distinct from print-on-blanks (where a pre-made garment receives a print after construction). All-over print requires cut & sew.

D

DTF (Direct-to-Film)

Print method where ink is applied to a transfer film, then heat-pressed onto fabric. Works on dark and synthetic fabrics that DTG can’t handle. Trade-off: leaves a perceptible film on the fabric surface, can crack at high-stretch points, lower wash durability than reactive printing.

DTG (Direct-to-Garment)

Print method where water-based pigment ink is applied directly to a finished garment by an inkjet printer. Standard for low-volume custom apparel. Trade-offs: lower wash durability than reactive print, requires pre-treatment for dark fabrics, limited print area.

Dispersion dye

Dye class designed for synthetic fibres (polyester, nylon). Bonds via heat. The basis of sublimation printing on polyester.

Dye sublimation

Print method where dispersion dyes are applied to transfer paper, then heat-converted to gas under pressure and absorbed into polyester fibres. Excellent durability on polyester. Cannot be used on cotton (no chemical bond).

E

Enzyme washing

Post-production fabric finish using cellulase enzymes to soften the fabric and remove surface fibres. Produces the soft handfeel of premium cotton tees. Distinct from acid washing (which lightens colour) and stone washing (mechanical abrasion).

F

Fabric weight (GSM)

Grams per square metre. Standard textile measurement. Lightweight tee fabrics: 120–160 GSM. Standard tee: 160–200 GSM. Heavyweight tee: 200–250 GSM. Hoodie / sweatshirt: 280–360 GSM. Canvas: 250–500+ GSM.

See also: GSM

Fastness

Generic term for a textile’s resistance to a specific stress: wash fastness (laundering), light fastness (UV), rub fastness (abrasion), perspiration fastness. Each measured on a 1–5 scale via standardised tests (ISO, AATCC).

Franču frotē

Knit fabric with a smooth face and a looped reverse, the standard base for premium hoodies and sweatshirts. Weights vary widely: Fabrixa prints it at 240 g/m² by the metre and uses 330 GSM for its hoodies.

G

GOTS (Pasaules bioloģiskās tekstilpreču standarts)

Independent certification covering the full processing chain of organic textiles — from raw fibre to finished product. Includes both ecological and social criteria (no toxic chemicals, fair labour, water treatment). Considered the strictest organic textile standard. Certification is mill-and-product-specific.

See also: OEKO-TEX standarts 100

GSM (grams per square metre)

Standard textile weight measurement. Higher GSM means heavier, denser fabric. The single most useful spec for comparing fabric quality across vendors.

H

Handfeel (hand)

Subjective tactile quality of a fabric — soft, crisp, smooth, rough. Print methods that leave a coating (DTG on dark, DTF, plastisol screen-print) change the original handfeel. Reactive printing preserves the base fabric’s original hand because dye bonds at the molecular level rather than coating the surface.

HMAC-SHA256

Cryptographic signature used to verify the authenticity of webhook payloads. The Fabrixa API signs all outbound webhooks with HMAC-SHA256 so receivers can verify the message originated from Fabrixa and was not tampered with in transit.

I

Idempotency key

A unique string included in an API request that allows the request to be safely retried without creating duplicate orders. Standard pattern in production-grade payment and order APIs. Fabrixa’s order endpoint accepts an idempotency key on every POST.

L

Piegādes laiks

Elapsed time between order receipt and dispatch. Distinct from delivery time (which adds carrier transit). Fabrixa’s standard lead time is 6–9 business days for apparel, 6–10 for printed home textiles from Spain, 5–7 for fabric per metre and 2–3 for sublimation pieces from the Netherlands.

M

Mercerisation

Cotton processing step where yarn or fabric is treated with caustic soda under tension. Increases tensile strength, sheen, and dye uptake. Mercerised cotton is the foundation of premium reactive-printed apparel because it accepts colour more vibrantly.

MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)

The smallest order a producer will accept. Traditional textile manufacturing has MOQ in the hundreds or thousands. Print-on-demand models offer MOQ 1 — the same SKU in single units. MOQ 1 with industrial print quality (vs MOQ 1 with consumer-grade DTG) is what distinguishes premium POD from bulk POD.

O

OEKO-TEX standarts 100

Independent textile certification covering chemical safety. Class I (the strictest) certifies products safe for babies and skin contact. Tests for over 100 harmful substances including heavy metals, pesticides, formaldehyde, and AZO dyes.

See also: GOTS

Organic cotton

Cotton grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, from non-GMO seeds, processed without harmful chemicals. Certified by GOTS or USDA Organic. Premium textile production typically uses organic cotton because it accepts reactive dye more uniformly.

P

Pigmentu druka

Print method where coloured pigment is bonded to fabric via a polymer binder. Sits on top of fibres rather than bonding chemically. Cheaper than reactive printing but lower wash durability and stiffer handfeel. Used in high-volume commodity printing.

See also: Reaktīvā drukāšana

Print-on-demand (POD)

Production model where each item is manufactured only after the customer order is placed. Eliminates inventory risk for the seller. Quality varies enormously by print method: DTG-based POD is consumer-grade; reactive-print POD (rare) is premium-grade.

Pre-treatment

Chemical solution applied to fabric before printing to optimise dye uptake. Reactive printing uses an alkaline pre-treatment that activates the cellulose for bond formation. DTG uses pre-treatment on dark fabrics to create a white base layer for ink visibility.

Print on demand vs. dropshipping

Print on demand means a product is made only after it is ordered: you sell your design, and the producer prints, finishes and ships each order. Dropshipping means you sell goods that a third party already holds in stock and ships for you; nothing is made to order. Fabrixa is print on demand: every order is produced from one piece in Portugal, Spain or the Netherlands.

See also: Print on Demand Latvija

Print on demand profitability

The margin per piece is your selling price without VAT, minus the production price and the shipping cost per piece. With print on demand nothing is produced or paid for until a customer orders, and the production price steps down at 10, 100 and 1,000 units a month.

See also: Cik maksā drukāšana pēc pieprasījuma? · Vai drukāšana pēc pieprasījuma ir ienesīga?

R

Reactive dye

Dye class containing “reactive groups” that form covalent bonds with cellulose fibres (cotton, linen). The bond is permanent — the dye becomes chemically integrated with the fibre rather than coating it.

Reaktīvā drukāšana

Industrial textile printing method using reactive dyes on cotton or other cellulose fibres. Produces the most durable colour bond available for cotton (typical wash fastness 600+ cycles), preserves original fabric handfeel, and is the textile industry’s premium standard. Read the full explainer.

REACH (EU Regulation 1907/2006)

EU regulation governing the registration, evaluation, authorisation and restriction of chemicals. All textiles imported to or produced in the EU must comply. Restricts AZO dyes, formaldehyde, phthalates, and dozens of other substances.

RMA (Return Merchandise Authorisation)

Process by which a buyer requests authorisation to return goods to a supplier. In B2B textile production, RMA typically requires evidence (photos), an order ID, and a reason code (defect, wrong item, damage in transit).

Rub fastness

Resistance of a printed colour to abrasion. Tested with a Crockmeter under standardised friction. Reactive prints achieve high rub fastness because dye is integrated with the fibre, not coated on the surface.

S

Sandbox API

A test environment that mirrors a production API without producing real goods or charging money. Fabrixa doesn’t run a separate sandbox host — instead you create a “build” sales channel to develop against, then switch to a “live” channel (with its own keys) for production. Same API, different keys.

Sanforisation

Pre-shrinking process applied to fabric to control post-wash shrinkage. Sanforised cotton typically shrinks <1% after first wash. Critical for premium apparel that needs consistent sizing.

Screen printing

Traditional textile print method using a stencilled mesh screen to apply ink. Excellent for high-volume single-design runs. Not viable at MOQ 1 (setup cost per design is high). Hand of the print depends heavily on ink type (plastisol leaves a thicker layer; water-based discharge inks penetrate the fibre).

SKU (Stock Keeping Unit)

Unique product identifier covering a specific variant (product + colour + size + design). One reactive-printed t-shirt design in five sizes is five SKUs.

Steam fixation

Process step in reactive printing where printed fabric is steamed under controlled heat and humidity. Activates the chemical bond between reactive dye and cotton fibre. Without correct steam fixation the dye washes out.

Sublimation printing

Print method where dispersion dye is converted from solid to gas under heat and absorbed into polyester fibres. Excellent durability on polyester. Cannot work on cotton.

See also: Dye sublimation

T

Thread count (TC)

Number of threads per square inch in woven fabric. Standard bedding thread counts: 200TC (cotton percale), 300TC (cotton sateen), 400TC+ (premium sateen). Higher thread count generally means smoother handfeel but is not the only quality indicator (yarn quality matters more).

See also: Audums metrā

Twill

Weave pattern producing diagonal lines on the fabric face (denim is the most common example). Cotton twill bases are common for outerwear, work wear, and bag production.

W

Wash fastness

Resistance of a printed colour to fading during laundering. Measured by ISO 105-C06 or AATCC 61. Reactive prints typically grade 4–5 on the 1–5 scale — the textile industry’s top tier.

Webhook

HTTP callback sent from one system to another when a defined event occurs. The Fabrixa API sends signed webhooks on every order state transition (queued, printing, sewing, QC, packed, dispatched, delivered).

White-label

Production and dispatch of goods under the buyer’s brand identity rather than the producer’s. Includes neck labels, neutral packaging, return address, tracking emails. Standard for B2B textile production sold to platforms and brand owners.

White label (textile)

In textiles, white label means that one company produces a garment or home textile and another sells it under its own brand. The producer stays invisible: the parcel ships in neutral packaging with the return address and tracking of the seller, and no producer branding. At Fabrixa every order ships white-label, and on apparel a custom neck label with your brand can be sewn in from 1 piece.

See also: White-label · Print on Demand Latvija

Go deeper

From a definition to the full picture.

Kas ir reaktīvā drukāšana?

The technical explainer behind half the terms on this page — dye chemistry, the covalent bond with cotton, fixation, and why wash durability runs to 600+ cycles.

Read the explainer →

The reactive print guide

The full mental model in fifteen minutes — what reactive AOP is, how the chemistry works, and how to design artwork that takes advantage of it.

Lasiet rokasgrāmatu →

Bieži uzdotie jautājumi

Straight answers on MOQ 1, lead times, fabric bases, certifications and how orders flow from Shopify, WooCommerce, Studio or the API into production.

Browse the FAQs →
Bieži uzdotie jautājumi

Textile printing terms, answered

Kas ir drukāšana pēc pieprasījuma?

„Print on demand“ ir ražošanas modelis, kurā prece tiek izgatavota tikai pēc tam, kad klients ir veicis pasūtījumu, tādējādi pārdevējam nerodas krājumu risks. Kvalitāte atšķiras atkarībā no metodes: DTG bāzes POD ir patērētāju klases produkts, savukārt reaktīvās drukas POD, ko izmanto Fabrixa, krāsu ķīmiski saista ar šķiedru, nevis pārklāj virsmu.

Kas ir DTF drukāšana tekstilrūpniecībā?

DTF (Direct-to-Film) ir apdrukas metode, kurā tinte tiek uzklāta uz pārneses plēves un pēc tam ar karstuma presēšanu pārnesta uz audumu. Šī metode ir piemērota tumšiem un sintētiskiem audumiem, kurus nevar apdrukāt, izmantojot „Direct-to-Garment“ metodi, taču tā atstāj uz virsmas jūtamu plēves slāni un tās izturība mazgāšanā ir zemāka nekā reaktīvajai apdrukai.

Kas ir merserizēta kokvilna un kāpēc tā ir svarīga apdrukai?

Mercerizācija ir kokvilnas apstrādes posms, kurā pavedienu vai audumu apstrādā ar kodīgo sodu, to stiepjot, kas palielina stiepes izturību, spīdumu un krāsas uzsūkšanos. Mercerizēta kokvilna uzņem reaktīvo krāsu daudz spilgtāk, tāpēc tā ir reaktīvās apdrukas apģērbu pamatā. Fabrixa to apvieno ar sanforizāciju — iepriekšējas saraušanās posmu, kas nodrošina, ka saraušanās pēc mazgāšanas parasti nepārsniedz 1%.

Kāda ir atšķirība starp pasūtījuma izpildes laiku un piegādes laiku?

Piegādes sagatavošanas laiks ir laiks no brīža, kad Fabrixa saņem pasūtījumu, līdz tā nosūtīšanai, savukārt piegādes laiks ietver arī pārvadātāja veiktās pārvadāšanas laiku pēc tam. Fabrixa standarta pasūtījuma izpildes laiks ir 6–9 darbdienas apģērbiem, 6–10 darbdienas apdrukātiem mājas tekstilizstrādājumiem no Spānijas, 5–7 darbdienas audumiem, kas pasūtīti metrā, un 2–3 darbdienas sublimācijas izstrādājumiem no Nīderlandes.

Ko nozīmē GSM attiecībā uz auduma svaru?

GSM ir saīsinājums no „grams per square metre“ (grami uz kvadrātmetru) — standarta auduma svara mērvienība, un augstāks GSM rādītājs nozīmē smagāku, blīvāku audumu. Viegla T-krekla auduma blīvums ir no 120 līdz 160 GSM, standarta T-krekla auduma — no 160 līdz 200 GSM, bet kapuces jakas vai džempera auduma — no 280 līdz 360 GSM.

Still not sure?

A term missing, or a spec you want checked?

If a piece of textile or production vocabulary isn’t defined here — or you want to confirm exactly what a certification, fabric base or fastness grade means for your project — talk to our team. Real humans, 24h response.